Chef Carlos Salgado’s smoked fish taco at Taco María has become one of Orange County’s most iconic dishes. It’s a fancy taco. Very, very fancy.
The best way to enjoy it is to sit at the chef’s counter and watch it being made. Be patient. It’s a slow, deliberate and methodical process akin to watching paint dry — except this is really interesting to watch. You think it’s going to burn, but it never does.
Technically the process begins long before you order it. The tortilla is hand-pressed from house-made masa that’s mashed from heirloom blue corn, which first needs to be limed and cooked.
The fish is smoked in advance, too. It changes with the season. Right now it’s cod. Sometimes it’s sturgeon. But the presentation is the same.
The taco is slowly, slowly griddled until the thick, blue-gray tortilla is crisp and the fish inside thoroughly heated. It is then paired with an extraordinarily spicy black chile oil (with peanuts) and a bite-sized salad of marinated cucumbers (meant to tame the heat, I guess — good luck with that).
This is not simply one of the best tacos in OC. It is one of the best tacos in the world. In fact — and I don’t say this lightly — it is infinitely more delicious than any of the incredible tacos served on the eight-course taco omakase menu at Mexico City’s Pujol.
Taco María
Where: 3313 Hyland Ave., Costa Mesa
When: Available only on the prix fixe dinner menu, Wednesday-Saturday
Phone: 714-538-8444
Online: tacomaria.com
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January 08, 2020 at 02:02AM
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Taco Tuesday: Taco Maria’s smoked fish taco is an Orange County icon - OCRegister
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