Sushi-Grade Fish Straight From Japan

From left: golden eye snapper, sea bream and king yellowtail tuna at the Wokuni fish market. Caitlin Ochs for The New York Times

Wokuni, a Japanese restaurant that opened last fall, has installed a sakanaya, or fish market, at the front of the restaurant. There, it sells sushi-grade seafood, including bluefin tuna, king yellowtail, and specialties like sea urchin, salmon roe and monkfish liver. The yellowtail and tuna are raised in Japan at the aqua farms owned by Tokyo Ichiban Foods, a large restaurant company that has Wokuni in its lineup. Most of the rest is flown in from Tsukiji Market in Tokyo. Some cuts of fish come grill-ready, seasoned with a thick white-miso marinade. Well-seared, the king yellowtail is lush and succulent: Seafood, from $2 to $32 during restaurant hours, 11:30 a.m. to 2:45 p.m., 5 to 10:15 p.m., Sakanaya at Wokuni, 327 Lexington Avenue (39th Street), 212-447-1212, wokuninyc.com.

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