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The EU is helping make fish fingers great again

Of all the EU’s east-west divides — on refugees, the rule of law, and free movement — perhaps none is as peculiar or as longstanding as the “dual food quality” row.

Europe’s smaller central and eastern member states have long complained they have been cheated into buying sub-standard goods — like chocolate spread, fish fingers and washing powder — compared to their western peers under the same labels and packaging.

But where Brussels could recently be accused of bending to the will of its bigger governments (eg with France on posted workers) or riding roughshod over its eastern member states (on migrant quotas) — it’s deadly serious about sorting out the food fight.

“Slovaks do not deserve less fish in their fish fingers. Hungarians less meat in their meals. Czechs less cacao in their chocolate”, European Commission president Jean-Claude Juncker railed in his state of the union speech last September — calling for an end to a Europe of “second class consumers”.

The commission is now backing its words with legislative action and is cooking up a plan to ban “dual food” products from being sold in the EU. It would force a company selling a different ratio of fish meat in their fish fingers in say Germany compared to Hungary, to brand the goods as two totally different products.

The regulation will be presented as part of a revamp of Brussels’ unfair consumer practices later on Wednesday. But the dual food row might not end there.

Vera Jourova, the EU’s Czech commissioner for consumers, is the biggest cheerleader for a ban — in part because the Czech Republic is one of the countries that feels most cheated by the “scandal”. Yet not everyone in the commission is quite as convinced.

For one, evidence of mass mis-selling of goods in the former Soviet bloc countries is pretty patchy. That’s one of the reasons why the commission will set up a research lab this year to test commonly complained about foodstuffs to see if there really is a difference. The more pro-business parts of commission would rather wait and see the results before asking companies to change their production methods.

But with time running out for the Juncker presidency, one EU official expects internal opposition to be overcome when commissioners meet to discuss the package later on Wednesday. To put it simply: proposing a ban on dual quality foods is a relatively easy move for a commission eager to heel rifts with central and eastern member states after a series of skirmishes.

As another official puts it: “It’s a symbolic move regardless of the evidence and a way to reach out to smaller countries who think the EU is just a club for big member states”.

Chart du jour: Lies, damn lies, and Brexit

Brexit is getting real. As of this week, the EU’s official stats body will start publishing key numbers from the EU27 — excluding the UK. The chart above shows Europe’s GDP per capita with the UK stripped out (the line in pink). Without Britain, the EU’s economy is 13 per cent smaller. Eurostat said it made the shift on the back of “users’ requests”. You can see the new databases for the EU27 here.

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Email:mehreen.khan@ft.com
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